Section: 24
Hours: 4

I counter sank the holes for the flush rivets in the wing tip. Lots of holes...

Then I fabricated a keeper for the piano hinge wires using 2 small sections of hinge double flush riveted together. I added a nut plate to the back of the wing tip rib for the screw to hold the keeper in place.

Here are the wing ends with the piano hinges riveted in place.

Section: 19
Hours: 2

I pulled out the 22 ga wiring I had installed for the tip lights and replaced it with a 3 wire 18 ga shielded pair and wired in the connector. Now all the wires for the tip lights are included in this bundle with shielding and I won't be using any part of the factory supplied wire harness for the tip lights. Much cleaner and hopefully this will cut down on any electrical noise interfering with the magnetometer which is located further in on the wing.

Section: OP-52A
Hours: 2

When I pulled out the wing light kits I discovered they were missing the hardware bags. Van's was very responsive and quickly shipped the missing hardware bags for the wing lights. Today I assembled the brackets to the lights.

Section: 19
Hours: 3

I fit the second wing tip and drilled holes. In addition to the strap to pull the tip into the leading edge I used duct tap to pull the fiberglass into the wing to close the gaps before drilling and clecoing.

 So far I'm satisfied with the trailing edge alignment.

Section: 19
Hours: 5

I am installing Flyleds tip lights so the wing wire runs have to be modified from the standard harness. My initial plan was to install a 2 pair 22ga shielded line and use the ground provided with the standard harness. That is what is shown in this post. Later I discovered that would not be sufficient and pulled it out and installed a 3 pair 18ga shielded line (see future post).

I discovered that the best way to handle shielded wiring termination is with solder and seal connectors. You strip the insulation back on the end of your cable to expose about 1/4 inch of shielding. Then you slip the connector over and slide a ground wire in and shrink the assembly using the heat gun. The solder melts and creates the connection between the shield and ground wire. This process is demonstrated on Stein Air's web site: solder sleeves

Here is the connector plug at the wing tip for the FlyLed lights. (note: I change this out later- don't wire it up this way!)

I tried out some wire lacing to bundle up the wiring for the aileron servo.

The wires provided that run back from the aileron servo to the aileron trim were a little short but I arranged them the best I could and applied some lacing to hold it together.

Section: 20
Hours: 3

I riveted together the ADAHRS mounting tray and fit the magnetometer bracket. After riveting the tray together I tried to slide the magnetometer bracket in. Unfortunately, the fit was too snug because I made the flutes in the retainer covers too deep. I tried flattening them with pliers, but even then the fit was too tight. I ended up filing down the edges of the bracket to get a better fit. I should have tried the fit before riveting the tray together. Live and learn...

Section: 19
Hours: 2

I decided to run the Van's supplied light and tip strobe wiring through the wing today so I could get an idea of how it fits. I like how the connector fits into a support bracket at the wing root.

I think I will pull out the red, yellow, green and white nav/strobe wires and replace them with a 3 wire shielded cable to eliminate noise. I'll tie the shield to ground on the FlyLED's controller in the fuselage and the shielded cable should fit in the existing grommets in the ribs along with the head light wiring.